Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part II: Glue-Blocking Tutorial

Hello Intrepid Crocheters!

If you have joined me on our Crochet Hot Air Balloon Mobile adventure, this is the second installment post that will teach you how to glue-block your crochet balloons and baskets so they will hang proudly aloft in the sky, floating merrily along.

Did you know that you can buy the PDF ebook of this crochet pattern along with full blocking and mobile-making instructions for just $5?

Well, you can!

 

BUY THE PDF EBOOK

 

I also welcome you to use the resources free on the site and please link and share to interested friends. If you enjoy the design and want to support my work and more free patterns, please consider clicking a few ads here on the site! 🙂

Now, let’s get down to some sticky business.

part 2 glue blocking

 

This glue-blocking technique is a bit like a magic trick, and many people have looked with fascination at my finished hot air balloons, and wondered “is it stuffed inside? how did you get it to stay open like that…?” It’s always fun to explain the process and it even intrigues people who aren’t as in to the whole crochet thing.

 

First is a photo-only explanation of the process, followed by step-by-step written instructions for glue-blocking [my term]  for stiffening/hardening/molding your crocheted hot air balloons into a lasting shape! I shared this idea on Reddit a few years ago when I made my first one and a brilliant Redditor called it “crochet mache” because the glue-saturation concept resembles papier-mache. Genius!

Photo Tutorial

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WRITTEN TUTORIAL

SPECIAL TOOLS for Glue-Blocking 

3 latex balloons –12” latex balloons

White school glue such as Elmer’s

Washable container that you don’t mind getting messy OR freezer paper to cover your work surface. If you use the shiny side of the freezer paper, the glue does not stick to it as pieces dry.

Waste yarn/string for hanging your Balloon Tops to dry.

Plastic grocery bag for molding your small Baskets (optional! You’ll see this in the pictures, but as I did this multiple times while re-designing the project, I learned that the Baskets molded just fine without a support as well. Up to you!)

Spray starch for pressing clouds (optional)

Balloon pump (optional)

 

 

GLUE-BLOCKING YOUR CROCHET

Balloon Tops and Baskets

Step 1: Apply Glue

Place your Balloon and Baskets (turn each piece Wrong Side out) in a washable container or on a surface that you don’t mind getting messy, I found that the shiny side of freezer paper worked well and the Balloons or Baskets didn’t stick to it. Cover each Balloon and Basket with white glue and massage the glue into the fabric until the crocheted fabric has soaked up all of the glue. The glues dries clear. Turn each Balloon and Basket Right Side out and repeat the process, saturating the entire balloon until the glue is fully worked into the fabric. Set aside in the container or on your covered surface. Repeat for each Balloon Top and Basket.

Step 2: Inflate Latex Balloon

If blowing up your balloon by mouth:

Stretch the neck of your latex balloon a couple times to make it easier to blow up. Get your latex balloon started with a few breaths of air. Insert your partially filled latex balloon into the neck of the hot air balloon. Now, holding it together with the glue-saturated hot air balloon, continue blowing up the latex balloon until it inflates your Balloon and pops a few inches out the neck of the Balloon —this part is messy, weird, and difficult, but take deep breaths and persevere! It will be worth it. Tie off the latex balloon and set the whole thing aside in the container or covered surface. Breathe the free air.

If you have a willing helper, you can get your balloon started and ask them to hold the neck of the crochet balloon open for you as you blow it up.

 

 

If using a balloon pump:

Begin filling your latex balloon with one or two pumps of air. Insert the partially filled latex balloon into the neck of the hot air balloon, lay in your container and continue pumping until the latex balloon inflates the hot air balloon and latex balloon pops out of the bottom of the hot air balloon by a few inches. Tie off latex balloon and set the whole thing aside in the container. I have to say, for a $2 outlay, this was a helpful tool and my 2-year old gets hours of fun firing off balloons around the room and giggling away. You should get one!



Step 3: Shape the Hot Air Balloon

As you blow up the latex balloon, it will inflate the glue-soaked Balloon creating a form for the balloon to dry into shape. Once your Balloon is filled to a pleasing shape, tie off the latex balloon. Use your fingers to tug and shape the hot air balloon evenly around the latex balloon, also adjusting the hot air balloon neck if needed, tugging and molding it into shape as desired. The piece will dry exactly as it is molded onto the latex balloon, so it’s worth adjusting it to your liking.

 

Step 4: Hang to Dry

Tie a piece of string or waste yarn to the knotted end of the latex balloon and hang to dry upside down. White glue cleans up easily with soap and water, but I hang mine over the basement laundry tub in case of any drips.

Step 5: Remove Latex Balloon

When the Hot Air Balloon is completely dry–this can take up to several days depending on the humidity levels in your workspace, check the piece all over for damp spots, especially the very top which is last to dry if the balloon is hanging upside down, untie and pop the latex balloon, gently pulling out any stuck pieces. Your balloon top should now be a hard shell!

 

Please See Hot Air Balloon Mobile Part III: Glue-Blocking Tutorial for a tutorial on putting all your work together to make the finished mobile!

Or buy the $5 PDF ebook for the full instructions in one handy booklet!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara 



Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part I: The Crochet Patterns

Welcome Crocheters and DIY Enthusiasts,

Join me as we embark on a Crochet Journey together making a charming and whimsical Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile!

Here’s our itinerary…

In Part I (this post), you’ll find a full crochet pattern to make 3  hot-air balloons with with accompanying baskets and ropes, along with 4 clouds.

In Part II you’ll find a super cool tutorial about hardening your crochet projects with a process I call glue-blocking. I walk you through all the steps of glue-blocking your balloons and baskets by molding them over latex balloons to form the lovely hot air balloon shape! It’s pretty cool, and there are tons of ways to use this technique to harden crochet pieces into baskets, wall art, lampshades, or holiday ornaments…the possibilities are endless.

Finally, in Part III, you’ll learn how to assemble your crocheted mobile charms and finish your mobile frame for hanging and installation.

Along the way, I’ve included modification ideas for changing yarn weights, using variegated yars, and even lighting your balloons for an added dazzle.

I really hope you enjoy!

Want this as a PDF ebook? Buy it here for just $5.

You can also support my free pattern work by clicking a few ad links here on the site. Every bit helps the crochet machine (i.e. me) keep cranking, and is deeply appreciated, though never expected.



Ready to fly? Let’s get started!

part 1 crochet pattern tile

SIZING
Finished Mobile:
17” [43 cm] height of charms hung from mobile frame
24” [61 cm] wide – this can be easily customized to your space depending on size and shape hoop used for mobile frame and level at which you hang your mobile charms

Hot Air Balloon A (small)
Balloon Top: 4.25” [11 cm] total length; 2.75” [7 cm] width; 8.25” [21 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 0.75” [2 cm] total length; 1” [2.5 cm] width; 3.5” [9 cm] circumference at fullest point

Hot Air Balloon B (medium)
Balloon Top: 6.5” [16.5 cm] total length; 4” [10 cm] width; 12.5” [32 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 1.25” [3 cm] total length; 1.5” [4 cm] width; 5” [12.75 cm] circumference at fullest point

Hot Air Balloon C (large)
Balloon Top: 9” [23 cm] total length; 5.5” [14 cm] width; 16.5” [42 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 1.5” [4 cm] total length; 2” [5 cm] width; 6.5” [16.5 cm] circumference

Clouds: 2.5” [6.5 cm] length; 5.25” [13.5 cm] width

 

YARN
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Basket Ropes:
Baby Bee Sweet Delight (60% Acrylic/40% Polyamide; 377 yds [345 m];4 oz [115 g]): 1 skein each color.
Colors:
A: Sand Castle #404 (used in Hot Air Balloon color stripes and Baskets)
B: Bashfull #76
C: Pooltime #59
D: Flannel Marled #402
E: Sunkisses #16
F: Boo Pink # 40
G: Sugarplum #60
H: Surf Baby # 66
I: Teddy #14 (for Basket Rope)
For Clouds:
J: Yarn Bee Cotton XXL (100% cotton; 50 yd [46 m]; 3.5 oz [100g];
White #100; 1 skein.

Yarn Substitutions:
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Ropes: #3 Light Weight Yarn (DK weight) in 9 colors.
For Clouds: #5 Bulky Weight Yarn (Chunky weight) in white.

 

CROCHET HOOKS
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Ropes: Size G/6 [4.0 mm]
For Clouds: Size L/11 [8.0 mm]

TOOLS
Yarn needle

 

SPECIAL TOOLS for Glue-Blocking and Mobile Installation
3 latex balloons –12” latex balloons
White school glue such as Elmer’s
Washable container that you don’t mind getting messy OR freezer paper to cover your work surface. If you use the shiny side of the freezer paper, the glue does not stick to it as pieces dry.
Waste yarn/string for hanging your Balloon Tops to dry.
Spray starch for pressing clouds (optional)
Balloon pump (optional)
Sewing needle and white or light-colored sewing thread for attaching Balloon Tops to Baskets and hanging Hot Air Balloons and Clouds to mobile frame
12” x 20” Quilter’s Wooden Embroidery Hoop to serve as mobile frame
Mug Hook for ceiling installation

 

GAUGE
15 sts and 12.75 rows = 4” in granny row half double crochet after glue-blocking.

Note: Gauge does not need to be precise for this project. Use a hook size appropriate for the yarn you choose—check the yarn label for guidance. Feel free to go down a hook size for a denser fabric texture.

 

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
increase shell [inc sh(s)]: 6 hdc worked in sp indicated
long shell [long sh(s)]: 3 hdc worked worked over/around the ch-sp of previous rnd and in the sp of 2nd previous rnd indicated
shell(s) [sh(s)]: 3 hdc worked in any sp indicated
space(s) [sp(s)]: not the same as a conventional chain-space; refers to the area between shells or between individual stitches of increase shells
NOTES
• This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
• This pattern is worked in the round with Right Side of the work facing you at all times.
• Weave in ends as you go to reduce finishing: optional, but helpful when you are changing colors with each round!
• Allow several days for the glue to dry completely depending on the humidity level in your workspace.
• If your glue-blocked balloon is not hard enough or still has soft spots, you can repeat the stiffening process by adding more glue wherever needed and allowing it to dry completely.

 

MODIFICATION IDEAS
• Use a different yarn weight. This pattern works in any yarn weight, but the dimensions of the finished project and the amount of glue you
need will change if you use a different yarn weight than the pattern
states.

• Change the balloon size. You can also change the size of the balloon by working more or fewer increase rounds alternating with “work even” rounds until you achieve a balloon top diameter you like. You would also need to adjust the length of the Balloon Body and the number of decrease rounds to keep your balloon in proportion.

• Change the color and style. Consider using a variegated yarn for different color effect. If you use a continuous strand of yarn instead of changing colors, you will need to slip stitch to the appropriate starting point at the end of each round worked. I think the easiest way to do this is to complete the current round, turn the work so the Wrong Side is facing, and slip stitch back to a starting point (1 or 2 slip stitches) as directed in the instructions, turn the work again so the Right Side is facing and you are ready to begin the next round.
Psst! This would mean only 2 yarn ends to weave in on the balloon instead of about 60…something to think about!

• Add Lighting Inserts (Optional, but so fun!) Use battery-powered flameless tea light candles to add a charming lighting element to your hot air balloons by placing the candle into the balloon basket for easy access to turn on and off. For an even more authentic hot air balloon experience, use a flameless candle that has a flickering effect! This functions as a sweet nightlight for your little one or pretty piece of home décor.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Balloon A (small)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Balloon Body
Rnds 5-6 (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

 

Balloon Bottom
Rnd 7 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs, 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 8: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…4 lshs; 4 shs.

Rnds 9-10: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

Rnd 11 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 12: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it (see photo for assistance). Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…2 lsh; 2 shs.

Rnds 13-14: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs.

Basket A
Special Note for Baskets made from one yarn: If you are making your Basket using one continuous strand of yarn as shown here, you will need to slip stitch your working yarn into position to start your next round at the beginning of each new round. At the end of each round, turn the work so the Wrong Side is facing, slip stitch back to the corner ch-sp or sp as directed, turn the work again so the Right Side is facing and you are ready to begin the next round.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) three times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnds 2-3: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs.

 

Balloon B (medium)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 5 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp betw shells, *inc sh in next sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs and 6 shs.

Rnd 6: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Balloon Body

Rnds 7-9: (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

Balloon Bottom

Rnd 10 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs, 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 11: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…6 lshs; 6 shs.

Rnds 12-13: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 14 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 15: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…3 lsh; 3 sh.

Rnds 16-18: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Basket B
See Special Note for Basket A.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) five times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…6 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnds 2-5: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

 



 

Balloon C (large)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 5 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp betw shells, *inc sh in next sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs and 6 shs.

Rnd 6: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Rnd 7 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps, inc sh in next sp, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl to to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs, 12 shs.

Balloon Body

Rnd 8: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 3 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 3 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…24 shs.

Rnds 9-12 (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

Balloon Bottom
Rnd 13 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs, 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 14: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next 2 sps, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around…6 lshs; 12 shs.

Rnds 15-17: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Rnd 18 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 19: Work as for Rnd 14…6 lsh; 6 sh.

Rnds 20-21: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 22 (decrease rnd): Work as for Rnd 14…8 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 23: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…4 lshs; 4 shs.

Rnds 24-26: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

 

Basket C
See Special Note for Basket A.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) three times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 2 (increase rnd): Sl st to nearest corner ch-sp, ch 2 (counts as hdc), (2 hdc – ch 1 – sh) in same ch-sp, (sh – ch 1 – sh) in each ch-sp around, sl to to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st to nearest corner ch-sp, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same ch-sp, sh in each sp or ch-sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

Rnds 4-6: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

 

Basket Ropes (Make 3)
Make a chain 2” [5 cm] longer than the circumference of the Basket you just made. Repeat to make a Basket Rope for each Basket.

 

Cloud (make 4)
With J and larger hook:
Round 1: Ch 5, 3 dc in first ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 8 dc in same ch, working on bottom side of foundation chain, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in first ch worked to close round.
Fasten off; break yarn leaving 12” [30.5 cm] tail.

If your cloud has any gaps from working into the center, you can use the yarn tail(s) to invisibly sew it closed from the back. Weave in yarn ends.

 

FINISHING
Turn Balloons and Baskets Wrong Side out. Weave in all yarn ends.
Glue-block by following these instructions. Press clouds with a warm iron and a little spray starch, if desired.

 

STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS

”                    inches

*                    repeat the instructions

following the single

asterisk as directed

betw            between

ch                chain

ch-sp           chain-space

cm               centimeters

dc                double crochet

dec             decrease

g                  grams

hdc              half double crochet

inc                increase

m                 meters

mm              millimeters

oz                 ounces

prev             previous

rep               repeat

rnd(s)           round(s)

sk                  skip

sl st               slip stitch

st(s)              stitch(es)

yd                yards

yo                yarn over

 

Well done! You’re ready to travel on to Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part II: Glue-Blocking!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara

 
image tile for blog and IG

Tiny Happy Crochet: 8 Darling Motifs to Make for Little Ones

Oh Crocheters, I have the dearest thing to share with you today!

Tiny Happy Crochet Collage with Label

Tiny Happy Crochet is a collection of eight darling crochet motifs that will sweeten up any project for little ones! You can sew them to simple garments and accessories for a touch of whimsy, create charms for precious buntings and nursery mobiles, or attach them to hair clips and greeting cards for a dear handmade touch. My three-year-old daughter enjoys playing with them fresh off the hook. They’re just fun to have around!

You can buy this ebook style pattern with ad-free written instructions and crochet charts for only $2 in my Ravelry Shop.

Some Introductory Remarks About Yarn…

YARN
For my colorwork projects, I love to work with a single brand or line of yarn that offers a wide range of colors to draw from. Many brands have color cards that are developed together to offer harmonious hues and simplify the issue of differing gauges and yarn textures creating motifs that look tied together.

With that said, you can mix, match, and blend weights, textures, and colors to your heart’s content! It is all good. This is a project to play and have fun with!



Yarns Used:
Baby Bee Sweet Delight (60% Acrylic/40% Polyamide; 377 yds [345 m];4 oz [115 g]): 1 skein each…
Sand Castle #404 (beige)
Bashfull #76 (peach)
Pooltime #59 (seafoam green)
Flannel Marled #402 (light heather gray)
Naked #11 (cream)
Sunkisses #16 (light yellow)
Boo Pink # 40 (baby pink)
Sugarplum #60 (lavender)
Surf Baby # 66 (light aqua blue)

 

 



 

Yarn Substitutions:
Various amounts and colors of #3 Light (DK weight) yarn. Feel free to use any weight yarn you desire. Just change to an appropriate hook size—check yarn label for guidance on recommended hook sizes if you are unsure.

Yarn Quantities:
You need very small amounts of yarn for the individual motifs. I recommend buying an assortment of colors, and have fun playing around! You’ll get LOTS of motifs from a few skeins of yarn.

 

 

 

CROCHET HOOK
Size F/5 [3.75 mm]
See Yarn Substitutions above for guidance on hook sizes. As with any crochet project, you should adjust hook size until you are happy with your fabric.

ABBREVIATIONS
Abbreviations and any Special Stitches used follow each Sweet Motif along with a crochet symbol chart and chart key.

Little Blossom (2 colors)


This Little Blossom is a dear little doodad with endless possibilities for applique onto garments and accessories. String them as a bunting. You could sew them together to create a beautiful scarf or scatter a few as a table decoration for a tea party.

 



 

INSTRUCTIONS
With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Round 1: Ch 2, 2 dc cl in ring (counts as 3 dc cl), ch 1, (3 dc cl, ch 1) 5 times in ring, sl st to top of first cluster to join round. Pull beginning yarn tail to close blossom center. Do not turn…6 clusters; 6 ch-sps made.
Fasten off; break yarn leaving 6” [10 cm] tail.
Join B in top of any cluster and pull up a loop.
With Color B:
Round 2: Ch 1, 3 dc-ch 1-sl st to top of same cluster, *sl st in next cluster, (ch 1 – 3 dc – ch 1 – sl st) in same cluster; rep from * around, sl st to top of first cluster to join rnd.

Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” tail. If you have any gaps between petals, use a yarn tail to tighten that area before weaving it in.
If you plan to applique this motif to another crocheted item, leave 1 or 2 yarn tails unwoven and use them to sew the motif to the background piece. Weave in yarn ends.

Little Blossom Chart and Key

 



 

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

“ inches
cm centimeters
2 dc cl 2 double crochet cluster
Instructions: Yo, insert hook in st or sp indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook in same st or sp, yo, pull up a loop,, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

3 dc cl 3 double crochet cluster
Instructions: Yo, insert hook in st or sp indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, (yo, insert hook in same st or sp, yo, pull up a loop,, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
ch chain
ch-sp chain space
dc double crochet
sl st slip stitch

Itty Bitty Blossom (2 colors)



The Itty Bitty Blossom may be my favorite of this whole collection, if I could choose one. Such a speedy way to add a tiny pop of pretty wherever it may be needed. We couldn’t resist turning them all into hair clips, but I think these would be darling sewn all over a baby sweater!

INSTRUCTIONS
With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Round 1: Ch 1 (counts as sc), 9 sc in ring, pull beginning yarn tail to close ring, sl st to ch to join round, do not turn…10 sc.
Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” tail.
Join B in any sc, pull up a loop.
With B:
Round 2: Ch 1, (sc-hdc-sc) in same st, *sl st in next 2 sc, pull up a loop, (ch 1, sc-hdc-sc) in same st; rep from * 3 times, sl st to first ch to join round.
Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” tail.


 



 

Abbreviations

“ inches
cm centimeters
ch chain
hdc half double crochet
sc single crochet
sl st slip stitch
sts stitch(es)

Little Cloud (1 color)


My family loves Winnie-the-Pooh so I think of this cloud motif as the Little Cloud that Pooh Bear sings about in Chapter 1.

How sweet to be a Cloud
Floating in the Blue!
Every little cloud
Always sings aloud.
-Winnie-the-Pooh, A. A. Milne

I use this design as an applique with Tiny Raindrops (below), as base clouds for my Bright Rainbow applique (below), and as nursery mobile charms! Imagine how cute it would be to sew clouds all over to a fuzzy blue baby blanket. Baby would love to touch and feel all the Little Clouds.

INSTRUCTIONS
Round 1: Ch 5, 3 dc in first ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 8 dc in same ch, working on bottom side of foundation chain, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in first ch worked to close round.
Fasten off; break yarn leaving 12” [30.5 cm] tail.
Use yarn ends to sew as an applique or weave in yarn ends. If your cloud has any gaps in the center, you can use the yarn tail to invisibly sew it closed from the back.

 

 

Abbreviations

“ inches
cm centimeters
ch chain
dc double crochet
sk skip
sl st slip stitch

Tiny Raindrops (1 Color)

cloud drops
Designed to make a sweet raincloud when paired with my Little Cloud motif (above), the Tiny Raindrops are quick and cute!

 



 

 

INSTRUCTIONS
(make 3-5 raindrops if using with Little Cloud pattern above)
Make adjustable ring.
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in ring, ch 2, sl st in ring. Pull beginning yarn tail to close ring. Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail.
Use yarn ends to sew the raindrop in place on your background fabric. Weave in remaining yarn ends.

Another Idea: An assortment of small blue buttons also make charming raindrops that fall sweetly from your Little Cloud instead of the crocheted Tiny Raindrops. Always use care when working with buttons on projects for small children since they can be choking hazards.

 

 

 

Abbreviations
“ inches
cm centimeters
ch chain
dc double crochet
sl st slip stitch

Bright Rainbow (6 Colors)

Sighting a rainbow is always special and fills me with joy!

Important Note: Fasten off and break yarn color after each row; join next color with Right Side of Rainbow facing throughout.

 

 



 

INSTRUCTIONS
Row 1: Ch 9, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hk, 2 sc in each ch across, do not turn…16 sc. Fasten off, break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, do not turn. Fasten off, break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 3 times, do not turn…24 sc. Fasten off, break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, do not turn. Fasten off, break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times, do not turn…30 sc. Fasten off, break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, do not turn. Fasten off, break yarn leaving 12” [30.5 cm] tail.

Single Crochet Rainbow Motif

Attach Clouds (optional)
Make 2 Little Clouds (pattern above) from white or ivory yarn using the same yarn weight and hook size you used for the Bright Rainbow so the proportion is correct. Use the yarn tails from the Little Clouds to sew the clouds to the bottoms of the rainbow applique.

 



 

Abbreviations
“ inches
cm centimeters
ch chain
RS right side
sc single crochet

Tiny Hearts (3 sizes)

Tiny Hearts are irresistible! Glue to cards to make valentines, hair clips, string for a bunting, or sew to anything for a little shot of love! Here are three sizes—all tiny!

INSTRUCTIONS
TINY HEART (large size)
Make adjustable ring.
Round 1: Ch 4, work following stitches into ring (3 dtr – 3 tr – dtr – 3 tr – 3 dtr), ch 3, sl st into ring. Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail. Pull beg yarn tail tight to close ring.

 



 

TINIER HEART (medium size)
Make adjustable ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, work following sts into ring (3 tr – 3 dc – tr – 3 dc – 3 tr), ch 2, sl st into ring. Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail. Pull beg yarn tail tight to close ring.

TINIEST HEART (small size)
Make adjustable ring.
Round 1: Ch 2, work following sts into ring (3 dc – 3 hdc – dc – 3 hdc – 3 dc), ch 1, sl st into ring. Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail. Pull beg yarn tail tight to close ring.

Bitty Bows (1 Color)


Bows are timeless for little girls, and these Bitty Bows add a precious tiny touch to baby hats, headbands, clothes or booties.

 



 

INSTRUCTIONS
Make adjustable ring using a long length (about 12” [30.5 cm]) of yarn to leave a long beginning yarn tail.
Round 1: Ch 6, 6 dtr in ring, ch 6, sl st in ring, ch 6, 6 dtr in ring, ch 6, sl st in ring.
Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” [15 cm] tail.
Use beginning yarn tail to wrap around the center of the Bitty Bow several times to form a gather. Weave yarn end through the back of the wrapped yarn to secure and weave to opposite short end of Bitty Bow. Use yarn ends to sew applique to background fabric. Weave in all ends.

 

 

Baby Bear Ears (1 or 2 Colors)


Sew these bear ears to the crown of any baby hat to instantly make it a bear hat! Adorable. Make the ears in the same yarn you used for the hat.

INSTRUCTIONS
Make 2 ear motifs.

Make an Adjustable ring.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 9 dc in ring, pull beg yarn tail to close ring, turn…10 dc.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in last dc, turn…12 dc.
Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 8” [20.5 cm] tail.

Baby Bear Ears Chart KeyBaby Bear Ears Chart

Sew Ears
Lay finished hat flat on work surface with the joining seam centered in back. Position ears (Right Side facing up) on the fold at the crown of the hat so the center of the ear is lined up with the center of Row 5 if you are using my Soft & Sweet Baby Beanie pattern. Use both yarn tails to sew ear securely in place between Rows 3-7. Rep for second ear. Weave in remaining yarn ends. Block lightly if desired.

Color Variation: I love to add Baby Bear Ears to my Classic 2-Color Stripe version of my Soft & Sweet Newborn Beanie. To make Baby Bear Ears for this striped hat, work Row 1 in Color A and Row 2 in Color B using the colors used to make the beanie.

Mix and match because it’s all cute!

If you enjoy my work, please consider buying this collection as a $2 PDF download to support more patterns, or you can always click a few ad links here on the site. I appreciate your support.

Sending you happy crocheted love today!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara

 



Blooming Boho Wall Hanging

When I came across this gorgeous crochet motif chart on Pinterest, I saw in my mind’s eye a beautiful boho cotton wall hanging for my home. Today it’s hanging in my baby girl’s nursery-in-progress, and the pattern is ready to be shared with you, my Crochet Friends!

You can buy a copy of the pattern here or use the site to work with the pattern completely free!

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I’ve been in love with all the #bohointeriors wall art pieces I’ve been seeing around lately. I love the lacy looks, natural colors, and peaceful, organic styling with lots of texture. There’s always a potted plant somewhere against a bare wall with a gorgeous ivory rope piece of macramé, have you noticed? Well, I just adore it even though I haven’t got a potted plant! So this is my crocheted ode to that whole vibe. Ahhh, a lacy peace blossom with a classic crochet aesthetic.

 

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I finished crocheting this project on the 4th of July and my little girl had a ball waving her crocheted “flag” threaded onto a dowel rod before I had a chance to cut it down. Made for some sweet photos! Fly your crochet flags proudly, Crocheters!

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In case you’re not a chart-lover like me, the pattern below offers written instructions that include my tweaks to the design to transform it from a lace motif to a large wall hanging. Prefer a video? I found out that there is a free instructional video available for this crochet motif. I haven’t used it myself, I’m a chart girl, but you might love it!

 

The chart has a few areas that are hard to see, and also doesn’t tell you precisely how many chains to use here and there, so I improvised with those and wrote in my substitutions. I also added another round of the treble crochet groups to add a little more weight to the edges of the hanging and created instructions to make hanging loops for a simple ½” dowel you can find at the craft or hardware store to mount your wall hanging. If you are lucky enough to live in an area with abundant driftwood available for collection, more power to you! Gor. Geous. And so boho.

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I live in central Illinois and have plenty of spindly sticks in my yard after every rainfall, but somehow it doesn’t have the same effect.

I finished my wall hanging with tassels to create more movement and free-spiritedness. I’ve included the link to my favorite tassel tutorial in the instructions. Also, I learned I’ve been making fringe the completely wrong way, but we don’t need to talk about that.

If you enjoy my patterns, please consider buying the ad-free PDF download for $2 or click some ad links here on my blog. I really appreciate your support!!

YARN

Peaches n’ Crème (100% USA cotton; 14 oz/400 g: 706 yd/645 m) in colorway white #263001: 1 cone

 

CROCHET HOOK

Size G/6 [4.0 mm] hook

 

TOOLS/MATERIALS

Yarn Needle

1/2” wooden dowel rod and tools to cut the dowel to size



 

STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS

”                       inches

*                      repeat the instructions following

the single asterisk as directed

betw               between

ch                    chain

ch-sp              chain space

cm                  centimeters

dc                   double crochet

dc4tog           double crochet 4 together

g                      grams

m                     meters

mm                 millimeters

oz                    ounces

rep                  repeat

rnd(s)              round(s)

RS                    Right Side

sc                    single crochet

sk                     skip

sl st                  slip stitch

st(s)                 stitch(es)

tr                      treble crochet

tr2tog             treble crochet 2 together

tr4tog             treble crochet 4 together

tr6tog             treble crochet 6 together

tr7tog             treble crochet 7 together

WS                   Wrong Side

yds                  yards

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

See original crochet chart source here.

Round 1: Ch 8, sl st to first ch to join round.

Round 2: Ch 1, 16 sc into ring, sl st to first sc made to join round…16 sc made.

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), (dc, ch 1) in each sc around, sl st to first dc made to join round…16 sc, 16 ch-sps made.

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same st and each st and ch-sp around, sl st to first sc made to join round…32 sc made.

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next sc) fifteen times, ch 2, dc in first sc made to join round (counts as 5-ch sp)…16 5-ch sps made.

Round 6: Ch 4 (counts as tr), 4 tr in same 5-ch sp, (ch 4, sc in next 5-ch sp, ch 4, 5 tr in next 5-ch sp) 7 times, ch 4, sc in next 5-ch sp, ch 4, sl st to first tr made to join round…8 5-tr shells made, 16 4-ch sps made.

Round 7: Ch 4 (counts as tr), 2 tr in same st, tr in next 3 tr, 3 tr in next tr, (ch 3, 3 tr in next tr, tr in next 3 tr, 3 tr in next tr) 7 times, ch 3, sl st to first tr made to join round…72 tr, 8 3-ch sps made.

Round 8: Ch 3, tr in next tr (counts as tr2tog), tr in next 5 tr, tr2tog over next 2 tr, (ch 6, sc in next 3-ch sp, ch 6, tr2tog over next 2 tr, tr in next 5 tr, tr2tog over next 2 tr) 7 times, ch 6, sc in next 3-ch sp, ch 6, sl st to first tr2tog made to join round…16 tr2tog, 40 tr, 16 6-ch sps made.

Round 9: Ch 3, tr6tog over next 6 sts (counts as tr7tog), (ch 6, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 6, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 6, tr7tog over next 7 sts) 7 times, ch 6, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 6, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 3, dc to first tr7tog to join round (counts as 6-ch sp)…8 tr7tog, 24 6-ch sps made.

Round 10: Ch 1, sc in same 6-ch sp, ch 7, sc in next 6-ch sp, [ch 2, 7 dc in next 6-ch sp, ch 2, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 7, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 7, (4 tr – ch 7 – 4 tr) in next 6-ch sp, ch 7, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 7, sc in next 6-ch sp] 3 times, ch 2, 7 dc in next 6-ch sp, ch 2, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 7, sc in next 6-ch sp, ch 7, (4 tr – ch 7 – 4 tr) in next 6-ch sp, ch 3, tr in first sc made to join round…4 (4 tr – ch 7 – 4 tr), 16 7-ch sps, 8 2-ch sps, 28 dc made.

Round 11: Ch 1, sc in same 7-ch sp, ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp, ch 7, (dc4tog over next 4 tr, ch 4, dc4tog over last tr and next 3 tr), [(ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) twice, ch 7, tr4tog over next 4 tr, ch 7, (tr4tog – ch 7 – tr4tog) in next 7-ch sp, ch 7, tr4tog over next 4 tr, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) twice, ch 7, (dc4tog over next 4 tr, ch 4, dc4tog over last tr and next 3 tr)] 3 times, [(ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) twice, ch 7, tr4tog over next 4 tr, ch 7, (tr4tog – ch 7 – tr4tog) in next 7-ch sp, ch 7, tr4tog over next 4 tr, ch 3, tr in first sc made to join round…16 tr4tog; 8 dc4tog; 4 4-ch sps; 36 7-ch sps made.

Round 12: Ch 1, sc in same 7-ch sp, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) twice, ch 3, 7 dc in next 4-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 7-ch sp, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) 3 times, ch 4, (4 tr – ch 7 – 4 tr) in next 7-ch sp [ch 4, sc in next 7-ch sp, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) 3 times, ch 3, 7 dc in next 4-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 7-ch sp, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) 3 times, ch 4, (4 tr – ch 7 – 4 tr) in next 7-ch sp] 3 times, ch 4, sc in next 7-ch sp, ch 3, tr in first sc made to join round…4 (4 tr – ch 7 – 4 tr); 24 7-ch sps; 8 3-ch sps; 8 4-ch sps; 28 dc made.

Round 13: Ch 1, sc in same 7-ch sp, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) twice, ch 7, sc in center dc of next 7-dc group, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) 3 times, ch 7, sc in next 4-ch sp, ch 7, (sc – ch 7 – sc) in next 7-ch sp, [ch 7, sc in next 4-ch sp, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) 3 times, ch 7, sc in center dc of next 7-dc group, (ch 7, sc in next 7-ch sp) 3 times, sc in next 4-ch sp, ch 7 (sc – ch 7 – sc) in next 7-ch sp] 3 times, ch 7, sc in next 4-ch sp, ch 3, tr in first sc made to join round…44 7-ch sps; 44 sc made.

Round 14: Ch 4 (counts as tr), 2 tr in same 7-ch sp, (5 tr in next 7-ch sp) 8 times, (5 tr – ch 3 – 5 tr) in next 7-ch sp, [(5 tr in next 7-ch sp) 10 times, (5 tr – ch 3 – 5 tr) in next 7-ch sp] 3 times, 5 tr in next 7-ch sp, 2 tr in next 3-ch sp (forms 5 tr group), sl st  to first tr made to join round…48 5-tr groups; 4 3-ch sps made.

Round 15: Sl st to space between same 5-tr group and next 5 tr group, ch 1, sc betw both 5-tr groups, (ch 5, sc betw next 2 5-tr groups) 8 times, (sc – ch 5 – sc) in next 3-ch sp, [ch 5, sc] betw next 2 5-tr groups] 11 times, ch 5, (sc – ch 5 – sc) in next 3-ch sp] 3 times, (ch 5, sc betw next 2 5-tr groups) twice, ch 5, sl st to first sc made to join round…56 5-tr groups; 4 3-ch sps made.

Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” tail.

 

HANGING LOOPS

Join yarn at top right 3-ch sp and pull up a loop.

Row 1: Ch 1 sc in same 3-ch sp, (ch 7, sc betw next 2 5-tr groups) 13 times, ch 7, sc in next 3-ch sp.

Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6” tail.

 

FINISHING

Weave in all yarn ends.

MAKE TASSELS

Make five 5” tassels—I used this tutorial and tassel-making finally “clicked” for me and I immediately began scanning my environs for items to be-tassel.

You can also make simple fringe.

Tie or attach tassels or fringe evenly spaced across bottom of wall hanging. I used the corner 3-ch sps and 5-tr groups as a guide to place my tassels. Weave in any tassel ties.

BLOCK

I opted to wet-block this wall hanging and also used a little spray starch alternative (Mary Ellen’s Best Press) and pressed it with an iron on the cotton setting to press the fabric into shape. I also lightly steam-pressed my tassels to straighten out the fibers.

 

MOUNT WALL HANGING ON DOWEL

Insert a dowel you have trimmed to size into the Hanging Loops, making sure to run the dowel into the loops in the same direction to the loops lie neatly on the rod. I sanded my dowel a little prior to hanging, but you totally don’t have to. My husband is a woodworker, so I had all the gear and his blessing to give it a whirl [literally] with the orbit sander.

He smiled when he saw my sanding results (it got away from me a little and I used an insanely high grit, as it turned out), but I was mucho satisfied.

MAKE HANGING CORD

Cut a generous length of yarn to hang your dowel—I used about 50”. Attach it by tying a double knot at one end of the dowel leaving a 10” tail, run the yarn length along the top edge of the wall hanging and tie another square knot at the opposite end of the dowel leaving another tail, trim this tail to 10”.  Wrap the remaining yarn tail 4-5 times around the knot and secure by using a yarn needle to weave the tail through the back of the wrapped yarn several times, trimming excess tail. Repeat at the opposite end of the dowel to secure the second tail.

Ta-Da!!!

Peace out with your Boho-fabulousness!

Yours in Stitches,
Sara

 

The Kaleidoscope Shawl: a free crochet pattern for you!

Hi Crochet Lovers!

You need to hear about some amazing things happening with my Kaleidoscope Shawl, a lovely–and free–crochet shawl pattern I placed with Red Heart several months ago.



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Kaleidoscope Shawl by Sara Kay Hartmann



I got so excited when I learned that the Kaleidoscope Shawl is part of an ebook collection called–get this–Coffee and Yarning.

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Um, I don’t know about you, but coffee and yarning is the story of my life.

Or at least I want it to be. How about you? 🙂

I really love this part…Marly Bird is offering an instructional video on how to crochet the Kaleidoscope Shawl.

I was so happy to learn about this, I had to share the videos right here with you on the blog.

There are instructions tailored to both right-handed and left-handed crocheters!



The stitch patterns are quite easy and add up to a bigger effect than you would think from their simplicity.



And the yarn choice has everything to do with that!

Long color repeats create a beautiful stained-glass effect that looks as if you worked an awful lot of stripes after spending hours in the yarn shop selecting a perfectly harmonious color palette.

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Kaleidoscope Shawl by Sara Kay Hartmann

But that’s all done for you with Red Heart’s Unforgettable yarn. I loved the Tealberry colorway they sent me.

I’m also a sucker for a singles-ply. The softness, the shine, the texture of the finished stitches, the light twist of the yarn. Mmm! So pretty.

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Red Heart Unforgettable: Colorway Tealberry



After discovering her videos, I’m going nuts for the yarn Marly used in her version of Kaleidoscope. After doing a little detective work, I’m pretty sure it’s the Parrot colorway.

I gotta make something with this!

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Red Heart Unforgettable: Colorway Parrot

Gorgeous. So bright and happy. I just love color.

What do you look for in your favorite crochet shawls?

I’m obsessed with shawls again and am in the process of designing and testing a brand new collection as I write this post. It’s been so much fun, and deeply satisfying to return to my love of designing shawls and wraps.



You can take a look at the first indie shawl collection I put together after publishing Poetic Crochet: 20 Shawls Inspired by Classic Poems.

 

Shawls Ebook Cover

Shawls by Sara Kay: PDF ebook collection, $17.95



I love bundling my patterns into collections that offer you a big discount on the individual pattern price.

Everyone loves a bundle, right?



You can read this post to learn more about the first beauty in the new collection lineup, or see my full set of shawl pattern releases on Ravelry.



I hope you enjoy the Kaleidoscope Shawl. Please tag me @sarakayhartmann on IG if you make it, or any of my patterns!

Yours ever in a tangle of yarn,

Sara