Gemma Scarf ~ A Free Crochet Pattern

Hello Crochet and Knitting Friends!

IT. IS. COLD. Boy, has it been cold and snowy, and icy, and wintry lately! So I have a fun freebie for you to fight the chill with just two skeins of yarn–the Gemma Scarf.

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Gemma begins with only a few stitches, and you will increase evenly at only one side of the work until you have used half your allotted yarn.

From there, you decrease evenly at the same side until your yarn is gone. Voila! You have a very wide, short triangle that forms a wonderful scarf or shawlette and looks endlessly chic and fashionable, especially in stripes or different stitch patterns.

This crochet pattern was inspired by the concept of the knitted Baktus Scarf, an awesome pattern!

 

Baklooptus Mosaic

Sizing
Scarf measures 64” (163 cm) long and 9” (23 cm) wide at triangle’s point.
Yarn
332yds/304m; 3.52oz/100g Fingering weight, 4-ply yarn
The sample was made using:
Patons Kroy Socks FX; Camelot Colors; 2 skeins
Hook
US Size E (3.5 mm)
Gauge
22 sts and 12 rows = 4” (10 cm) over hdc-tbl (half-double crochet through back loops) Dare I say gauge is not critical to this pattern? See what fabric texture you like best.
Notions
• Yarn needle

 

Abbreviations
ch: chain
cm: centimeters
dec: decrease
ETL: extended turning loop; see instructions above
fhdc: foundation half-double crochet
g: grams
hdc: half-double crochet
hdc-tbl: half-double crochet through the back loop only
hk: hook
inc: increase
m: meters
mm: millimeters
oz: ounces
rep: repeat
RS: right side
st(s): stitch(es)
yd(s): yards
yo: yarn over
“: inches

Special Stitches
Extended turning loop (ETL) – Instead of the conventional 2-ch turning chain used with hdc, I like to make 1 long chain that reaches the height of the hdc you are about to work. Using this method, you will turn your work to begin a new row and then simply pull up a longer loop than normal – pull up the loop to reach as high as the stitch you are about to work. Do not yo & pull through, you aren’t making a complete chain. Just work your hdc into the last st of the previous row, there is no need to skip any stitches at the edge of your work when you use this method.
Decrease (dec): Half double crochet 2 together
Working in back loops (hdc-tbl): work hdc through back loop only

 

Pattern Notes
• The scarf is worked side to side from short end to short end in rows.
• The finished dimensions of the scarf as stated represent the finished size of Baklooptus with 2 skeins of the recommended yarn. Use of a different yarn and/or different gauge will most likely produce a scarf of different dimensions and require a different quantity of yarn.
• Severe blocking is not recommended to preserve the elasticity of Half-double crocheted ribbing. Of course you can always see what effect you like best!
• All pattern abbreviations are noted at the end of this pattern

 

Instructions
Begin at scarf end point:
Set-up Row: Ch 2, ETL, 1 hdc in each ch, turn…2 hdc.
Row 1 (RS): ETL, inc 1 as follows: (1hdc, 1hdc-tbl) in edge st, 1hdc-tbl in each st across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): ETL, 1 hdc-tbl in each st across, turn.



Rep Rows 1 & 2 until you have worked your last full Row 2.

Row 1 (RS): ETL, dec 1 as follows: (yo, insert hk under both (front & back) loops of edge st, pull up a loop, yo, insert hk through back loop only of next st, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hk), 1hdc-tbl in each st across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): ETL, 1 hdc-tbl in each st across, turn.

Rep Rows 1 & 2 until only 2 sts remain.
Work Row 2 once more.
Fasten off.
Break yarn, leaving a 6″ tail.



Finishing
Weave in all ends.
Gentle steam blocking will even out the stitches; not too hot if you want your ribbing to keep its stretchiness.



Schematic

Baklooptus Schematic

 

I hope you are staying warm and enjoy this free pattern!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara



Heart Vines Hat ~ A Free Knitting Pattern

heart vines hat

 


Swatching through Barbara Walker’s Second Treasury one day, I was struck by the subtle heart shape inherent in the un-blocked vine stripe pattern and instantly began to think about a special way to use it. To me, one of the most exciting moments in knitting is when your imagination goes wild with ideas and your hands can only follow one stitch at a time. Heart Vines reminds me that good knitting—like good living—needs imagination and heart.

Knit in the round from the bottom up, this lace beret is a simple instant-gratification knit! If you’ve ever struggled with lace, the easy-to-follow pattern will help you break through the barrier. There’s a bonus lace chart at the bottom made by a wonderful reader!

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Difficulty
Intermediate

 




 

Skills Used
Knitting in the round
Increasing & decreasing
Binding off
Using double-pointed needles

 

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Size
One-Size: to fit the average adult head up to 24″

 

 

Finished Measurements
Height: 8 inches
Brim circumference, unstretched: 15 inches (38 cm)
Will comfortably fit head up to 24 inches (61 cm)

 

 


Yarn
Red Heart Eco-Ways Bamboo Wool Fiber: 55% bamboo, 45% wool; 87 yd/80 m per 50 g ball Color: Twilight; #3845 2 balls

Use Worsted Weight yarn for substitutions.

 




 

Needles
1 16-inch US #8/5mm circular needle
1 16-inch US #9/5.5mm circular needle
1 set US #8/5mm double-pointed needles

 

 

Notions
stitch marker
yarn needle

Gauge Gauge Gauge Gauge
16 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, Red Heart Eco-Ways Bamboo Wool
16 sts/22 rows = 4 inches (10cm) in stockinette stitch, Patons Angora Bamboo (discontinued)

 

 


Hat Brim
Using larger circular needle, CO 76 sts. Do not join. Slip cast-on sts to smaller circular needle. Pm and join for working in the round. Round 1: *Knit 2, purl 2; rep from * around, slipping marker as you come to it. Repeat Round 1, 8 times more.

Hat Body
Change to larger circular needle. Increase Round: *K2, m1, k3, m1; rep from * around to last 3 sts, k3…105 sts.

 

 

Begin lace pattern (see chart for assistance):
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: * K3, (yo, k1) twice, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, p2; rep from * around.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: * (K3, yo) twice, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, p2; rep from * around.
Round 5: Knit.
Round 6: * K3, yo, k5, yo, k1, sl 1 – k2tog – psso, k1, p2; rep from * around.
Round 7: Knit.
Round 8: *K1, ssk, k3, k2tog, (k1, yo) twice, k3, p2; rep from * around.
Round 9: Knit.
Round 10: *K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 (yo, k3) twice, p2; rep from * around.
Round 11: Knit.
Round 12: *K1, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k3, p2; rep from * around.

Rep rounds 1-12 twice more.

Crown Decreases
Note: Switch to double-pointed needles when you have too few sts to fit around the circular needle.

 




 

Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: *K2tog; rep from * to last st, k1…53 sts.
Rep rounds 1-2 twice more…14sts.
Round 3: *K2tog; rep from * around…7 sts.
Round 4: Knit.

FINISHING
Break yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread yarn through remaining live sts and pull tight to close up center. Weave in yarn ends. Block lightly if desired. Gentle steam blocking over a dinner plate will enhance beret’s slouchiness!

 




 

Abbreviations
CO – cast on k – knit p – purl rep – repeat Sl – slip yo – yarn over
ssk – slip, slip, knit k2tog – knit 2 together K3tog – knit 3 together psso – pass slipped stitch over pm – place marker

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Heart Vines Chart

Thanks for visiting me today! I hope you enjoy this free pattern.

Yours In Stitches,

Sara 




Trixie Cowl ~ A Free Crochet Pattern

Good Morning Dear Crochet Lovers,

Trixie means “she who brings happiness” and there isn’t much that makes me happier than a super-chunky, super-quick, and super-pretty crochet cowl worked in a watercolor inspired yarn (also, my painting obsession continues) and an interesting stitch! It’s large enough to wrap 2 or 3 times around your neck for extra snuggles. You can buy the ad-free pattern download for just $2 in my Ravelry shop or use the pattern freely here on the site. Thanks for visiting me today. <3  

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I love the first cool-off and rains of Fall which arrived for us this weekend. I put up my fall wreath on our front door this weekend to celebrate,and admired the mums and pumpkins at the grocery store with my little girl. Did you enjoy any Fall beauties?



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Trixie will snuggle you up all Fall and winter as you sip hot drinks and go on your pumpkin patch adventures! Here is the pattern:

SIZE
Finished Cowl measures 80” [203 cm] circumference and 7” [18 cm] wide after wet-blocking



YARN
Yarn Bee Watercolor Hues (100% Acrylic; 63 yd [58 m]/ 3.5 oz [99 g]); Mod Behavior #02: 2 skeins
For Yarn Substitutions: 126 yd [116 m] of #6 Super Bulky weight yarn (also called Roving weight)

CROCHET HOOK
Size N [10.00 mm] hook



NOTIONS
Yarn Needle

NOTES
This cowl is worked flat from the bottom up and seamed at both short ends to create an infinity scarf.

 

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SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
Quadruple treble crochet (quad tr): YO hook 5 times, insert hk into st or sp indicated, yo and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook), [yo, pull through 2 loops] x times.

GAUGE
Gauge is not critical to this design.
2 repeats = 4” [10 cm] in double crochet box mesh

INSTRUCTIONS (See Chart for Assistance)
Foundation Chain: Ch 12.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in 7th ch from hk, (ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch) 3 times, turn.
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 3 times, turn.
Row 3: (Ch 15, sc in next 2-ch sp) 4 times, ch 7, quad tr (5-wraps) in last dc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 2, sc in next 15-ch sp) 4 times, turn.
Row 5: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in next sc, (ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next sc) 3 times, turn.
Row 6: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 3 times, turn.
Row 7: (Ch 15, sc in next 2-ch sp) 4 times, ch 7, quad tr (5-wraps) in last dc, turn.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 2, sc in next 15-ch sp) 4 times, turn.

 



Squiggle Cowl Chart



Repeat Rows 5-8 twenty times or until cowl measures desired length.
Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 12” [30 cm] tail for seaming.

Finishing
With RS together, sew a seam joining foundation row to final row. Weave in yarn ends. Turn RS out and wet-block, lay flat to dry stretching lace open as desired.



STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS
” inches
ch chain
cm centimeters
dc double crochet
g grams
hk hook
m meters
mm millimeters
oz ounces
quad tr quadruple treble crochet (See Special Abbreviations)
RS Right Side
sk skip
WS Wrong Side
yd yards



Yours in Stitches,

Sara

trixie tile



Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part I: The Crochet Patterns

Welcome Crocheters and DIY Enthusiasts,

Join me as we embark on a Crochet Journey together making a charming and whimsical Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile!

Here’s our itinerary…

In Part I (this post), you’ll find a full crochet pattern to make 3  hot-air balloons with with accompanying baskets and ropes, along with 4 clouds.

In Part II you’ll find a super cool tutorial about hardening your crochet projects with a process I call glue-blocking. I walk you through all the steps of glue-blocking your balloons and baskets by molding them over latex balloons to form the lovely hot air balloon shape! It’s pretty cool, and there are tons of ways to use this technique to harden crochet pieces into baskets, wall art, lampshades, or holiday ornaments…the possibilities are endless.

Finally, in Part III, you’ll learn how to assemble your crocheted mobile charms and finish your mobile frame for hanging and installation.

Along the way, I’ve included modification ideas for changing yarn weights, using variegated yars, and even lighting your balloons for an added dazzle.

I really hope you enjoy!

Want this as a PDF ebook? Buy it here for just $5.

You can also support my free pattern work by clicking a few ad links here on the site. Every bit helps the crochet machine (i.e. me) keep cranking, and is deeply appreciated, though never expected.



Ready to fly? Let’s get started!

part 1 crochet pattern tile

SIZING
Finished Mobile:
17” [43 cm] height of charms hung from mobile frame
24” [61 cm] wide – this can be easily customized to your space depending on size and shape hoop used for mobile frame and level at which you hang your mobile charms

Hot Air Balloon A (small)
Balloon Top: 4.25” [11 cm] total length; 2.75” [7 cm] width; 8.25” [21 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 0.75” [2 cm] total length; 1” [2.5 cm] width; 3.5” [9 cm] circumference at fullest point

Hot Air Balloon B (medium)
Balloon Top: 6.5” [16.5 cm] total length; 4” [10 cm] width; 12.5” [32 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 1.25” [3 cm] total length; 1.5” [4 cm] width; 5” [12.75 cm] circumference at fullest point

Hot Air Balloon C (large)
Balloon Top: 9” [23 cm] total length; 5.5” [14 cm] width; 16.5” [42 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 1.5” [4 cm] total length; 2” [5 cm] width; 6.5” [16.5 cm] circumference

Clouds: 2.5” [6.5 cm] length; 5.25” [13.5 cm] width

 

YARN
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Basket Ropes:
Baby Bee Sweet Delight (60% Acrylic/40% Polyamide; 377 yds [345 m];4 oz [115 g]): 1 skein each color.
Colors:
A: Sand Castle #404 (used in Hot Air Balloon color stripes and Baskets)
B: Bashfull #76
C: Pooltime #59
D: Flannel Marled #402
E: Sunkisses #16
F: Boo Pink # 40
G: Sugarplum #60
H: Surf Baby # 66
I: Teddy #14 (for Basket Rope)
For Clouds:
J: Yarn Bee Cotton XXL (100% cotton; 50 yd [46 m]; 3.5 oz [100g];
White #100; 1 skein.

Yarn Substitutions:
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Ropes: #3 Light Weight Yarn (DK weight) in 9 colors.
For Clouds: #5 Bulky Weight Yarn (Chunky weight) in white.

 

CROCHET HOOKS
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Ropes: Size G/6 [4.0 mm]
For Clouds: Size L/11 [8.0 mm]

TOOLS
Yarn needle

 

SPECIAL TOOLS for Glue-Blocking and Mobile Installation
3 latex balloons –12” latex balloons
White school glue such as Elmer’s
Washable container that you don’t mind getting messy OR freezer paper to cover your work surface. If you use the shiny side of the freezer paper, the glue does not stick to it as pieces dry.
Waste yarn/string for hanging your Balloon Tops to dry.
Spray starch for pressing clouds (optional)
Balloon pump (optional)
Sewing needle and white or light-colored sewing thread for attaching Balloon Tops to Baskets and hanging Hot Air Balloons and Clouds to mobile frame
12” x 20” Quilter’s Wooden Embroidery Hoop to serve as mobile frame
Mug Hook for ceiling installation

 

GAUGE
15 sts and 12.75 rows = 4” in granny row half double crochet after glue-blocking.

Note: Gauge does not need to be precise for this project. Use a hook size appropriate for the yarn you choose—check the yarn label for guidance. Feel free to go down a hook size for a denser fabric texture.

 

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
increase shell [inc sh(s)]: 6 hdc worked in sp indicated
long shell [long sh(s)]: 3 hdc worked worked over/around the ch-sp of previous rnd and in the sp of 2nd previous rnd indicated
shell(s) [sh(s)]: 3 hdc worked in any sp indicated
space(s) [sp(s)]: not the same as a conventional chain-space; refers to the area between shells or between individual stitches of increase shells
NOTES
• This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
• This pattern is worked in the round with Right Side of the work facing you at all times.
• Weave in ends as you go to reduce finishing: optional, but helpful when you are changing colors with each round!
• Allow several days for the glue to dry completely depending on the humidity level in your workspace.
• If your glue-blocked balloon is not hard enough or still has soft spots, you can repeat the stiffening process by adding more glue wherever needed and allowing it to dry completely.

 

MODIFICATION IDEAS
• Use a different yarn weight. This pattern works in any yarn weight, but the dimensions of the finished project and the amount of glue you
need will change if you use a different yarn weight than the pattern
states.

• Change the balloon size. You can also change the size of the balloon by working more or fewer increase rounds alternating with “work even” rounds until you achieve a balloon top diameter you like. You would also need to adjust the length of the Balloon Body and the number of decrease rounds to keep your balloon in proportion.

• Change the color and style. Consider using a variegated yarn for different color effect. If you use a continuous strand of yarn instead of changing colors, you will need to slip stitch to the appropriate starting point at the end of each round worked. I think the easiest way to do this is to complete the current round, turn the work so the Wrong Side is facing, and slip stitch back to a starting point (1 or 2 slip stitches) as directed in the instructions, turn the work again so the Right Side is facing and you are ready to begin the next round.
Psst! This would mean only 2 yarn ends to weave in on the balloon instead of about 60…something to think about!

• Add Lighting Inserts (Optional, but so fun!) Use battery-powered flameless tea light candles to add a charming lighting element to your hot air balloons by placing the candle into the balloon basket for easy access to turn on and off. For an even more authentic hot air balloon experience, use a flameless candle that has a flickering effect! This functions as a sweet nightlight for your little one or pretty piece of home décor.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Balloon A (small)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Balloon Body
Rnds 5-6 (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

 

Balloon Bottom
Rnd 7 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs, 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 8: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…4 lshs; 4 shs.

Rnds 9-10: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

Rnd 11 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 12: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it (see photo for assistance). Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…2 lsh; 2 shs.

Rnds 13-14: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs.

Basket A
Special Note for Baskets made from one yarn: If you are making your Basket using one continuous strand of yarn as shown here, you will need to slip stitch your working yarn into position to start your next round at the beginning of each new round. At the end of each round, turn the work so the Wrong Side is facing, slip stitch back to the corner ch-sp or sp as directed, turn the work again so the Right Side is facing and you are ready to begin the next round.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) three times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnds 2-3: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs.

 

Balloon B (medium)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 5 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp betw shells, *inc sh in next sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs and 6 shs.

Rnd 6: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Balloon Body

Rnds 7-9: (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

Balloon Bottom

Rnd 10 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs, 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 11: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…6 lshs; 6 shs.

Rnds 12-13: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 14 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 15: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…3 lsh; 3 sh.

Rnds 16-18: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Basket B
See Special Note for Basket A.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) five times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…6 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnds 2-5: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

 



 

Balloon C (large)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 5 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp betw shells, *inc sh in next sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs and 6 shs.

Rnd 6: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Rnd 7 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps, inc sh in next sp, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl to to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs, 12 shs.

Balloon Body

Rnd 8: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 3 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 3 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…24 shs.

Rnds 9-12 (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

Balloon Bottom
Rnd 13 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs, 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 14: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next 2 sps, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around…6 lshs; 12 shs.

Rnds 15-17: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Rnd 18 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 19: Work as for Rnd 14…6 lsh; 6 sh.

Rnds 20-21: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 22 (decrease rnd): Work as for Rnd 14…8 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 23: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…4 lshs; 4 shs.

Rnds 24-26: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

 

Basket C
See Special Note for Basket A.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) three times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 2 (increase rnd): Sl st to nearest corner ch-sp, ch 2 (counts as hdc), (2 hdc – ch 1 – sh) in same ch-sp, (sh – ch 1 – sh) in each ch-sp around, sl to to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st to nearest corner ch-sp, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same ch-sp, sh in each sp or ch-sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

Rnds 4-6: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

 

Basket Ropes (Make 3)
Make a chain 2” [5 cm] longer than the circumference of the Basket you just made. Repeat to make a Basket Rope for each Basket.

 

Cloud (make 4)
With J and larger hook:
Round 1: Ch 5, 3 dc in first ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 8 dc in same ch, working on bottom side of foundation chain, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in first ch worked to close round.
Fasten off; break yarn leaving 12” [30.5 cm] tail.

If your cloud has any gaps from working into the center, you can use the yarn tail(s) to invisibly sew it closed from the back. Weave in yarn ends.

 

FINISHING
Turn Balloons and Baskets Wrong Side out. Weave in all yarn ends.
Glue-block by following these instructions. Press clouds with a warm iron and a little spray starch, if desired.

 

STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS

”                    inches

*                    repeat the instructions

following the single

asterisk as directed

betw            between

ch                chain

ch-sp           chain-space

cm               centimeters

dc                double crochet

dec             decrease

g                  grams

hdc              half double crochet

inc                increase

m                 meters

mm              millimeters

oz                 ounces

prev             previous

rep               repeat

rnd(s)           round(s)

sk                  skip

sl st               slip stitch

st(s)              stitch(es)

yd                yards

yo                yarn over

 

Well done! You’re ready to travel on to Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part II: Glue-Blocking!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara

 
image tile for blog and IG

Soft & Sweet Baby Beanies

 

Quick. Easy. Adorable.

The Soft & Sweet Baby Beanie is a lovely baby gift. The pattern offers 3 sizes and 4 color options to change up the basic double crochet beanie so you can suit it to boys and girls or go gender-neutral!

 

Sizes

Newborn (6 Mos., 12 Mos.)

Newborn finished measurements: 14” head circumference and 5” length from brim to crown

6 mos. finished measurements: 16.25” head circumference and 5.75” length from brim to crown

12 mos. finished measurements: 18” head circumference and 6.5” length from brim to crown



 

Yarn

All Samples Used Various Colors of: Baby Bee Sweet Delight (60% Acrylic & 40% Polyamide; 377 yd [344 m] / 4 oz [113 g]

 

For Yarn Substitutions:

71 (84, 101) yd [65 (77, 93) m] / 0.74 (0.88, 1.1) oz [21 (25, 30 g] of #3 Light (DK weight) yarn

 

Hook/Gauge

Size F/5 [3.75 mm] hook

18 sts and 11 rows = 4” in double crochet

 

Notes

  • This beanie is worked in the round from crown to brim in double crochet with one round of reverse single crochet (crab stitch) as a border.
  • Each round is a Right Side round.

 

COLOR VARIATIONS

Solid Color:

Use one color to work the entire hat. Easy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Color Blocked Hat:

Work Rounds 1-8 (1-10, 1-12) in Color A and Rounds 9-13 (11-15, 13-17) in Color B. Work Edging Round in A or B as desired. Try making a pom-pom in Color C and attach to the crown center for a jaunty winter look!

 

Classic 2-Color Stripes:

Work all odd numbered rounds in Color A and all even-numbered rounds in Color B; work Edging Round in B. Carry unused yarn down the inside of the hat “seam” without fastening off to reduce the number of ends to weave in. (Psst! This sample shows the Classic 2-Color Stripes Beanie with my Baby Bear Ears motif from my Sweet Motifs for Crochet Delight Collection!)

 

Multi-Stripes: Work each round in a different color, or alternate colors at random. Go color crazy! Pick “boy” or “girl” colors or make it gender-neutral—a great option for gifts where the parents are not finding out the baby’s sex.

Fasten off and break yarn after each round and join a new color at the start of the next round. Work over yarn ends to weave in as you go and reduce finishing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BASIC BEANIE INSTRUCTIONS

See Color Variations Above to determine color patterning.

 



CROWN

All Sizes

Make adjustable ring.

 

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to join round and pull beginning yarn tail to close ring…12 dc.

 

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to first dc to join round…24 dc.

 

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next dc *2 dc in first dc, dc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…36 dc.

 

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…48 dc.

 

Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 3 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…60 dc.

 

Size 6 Mos. and 12 Mos. ONLY

Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 4 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…72 dc.

 

Size 12 Mos. ONLY

Round 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 11 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 11 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…78 dc.

 

HAT BODY

All Sizes

Round 6 (7, 8): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each dc around, sl st to first dc to join round.

Rounds 7-13 (8-15, 9-17): Ch 3 (counts as dc, dc in each dc around, sl st to first dc to join round.

 

Edging Round: Ch 1, work rev sc (crab stitch) in each dc around, sl st to first rev sc to join round.

 

Finishing

Weave in yarn ends. Block lightly with gentle steam if desired.

 

 

 

 

 

 



STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS

 

”                       inches

*                      repeat the instructions following

the single asterisk as directed

ch                    chain

cm                  centimeters

dc                   double crochet

g                      grams

m                     meters

mm                 millimeters

mos                 months

oz                    ounces

rep                  repeat

rev sc              reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

rnd(s)              round(s)

RS                    Right Side

sl st                  slip stitch

st(s)                 stitch(es)

WS                   Wrong Side

yds                  yards

 



 

Thank you for using a #SaraKayHartmann design.

I hope to give you a joyous crochet experience!

 

Share your projects with me at

@sarakayhartmann on IG

 

Find more patterns you’ll love at sarakayhartmann.com

Many of the hats in this collection were embellished with my

Sweet Motifs for Crochet Delight!



Yours in Stitches,
Sara

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