Scribblers Fingerless Gloves: A Free Crochet Pattern

Hello Crocheters!

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I’m starting to think about fall as the stores show displays of pumpkin decor and Thanksgiving things. It seems early, but I’m ready!

For the colder months, I have a romantic wisp of lace crochet for you today–a sweet pair of fingerless gloves. These little gloves will keep you warm but still adroit when you embark on creative projects that require nimble digits for crocheting, maybe…or texting. In these photos, I was working on some fabric collage in my very chilly basement studio.



The story behind these gloves comes from my childhood love of the book Little Women by Louisa May Alcott, which my mother read aloud to me when I was 10 or 11 years old.

My mother reading aloud to me is one of my happiest childhood memories, and my daughter and I love to carry on this tradition.

I was enamored of the character Jo March, the wild and tom-boyish second March sister who was a playwright and writer. Jo often cloistered herself in the garrett–a wonderful term for the top-most room in a house just beneath the roof–dressed in her ‘scribbling suit’ (a black pinafore on which she could freely wipe ink from her pen, and a black snood to cover her hair) to feverishly pen her works of genius.

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I found Jo incredibly spirited and romantic, and for a long time I wanted to grow up to be a writer just like her. So I dressed up in my own scribbling suit (a garnet red polyester evening gown my mother found for me at Goodwill), acquired a nibbed pen with no ink holder from a calligraphy section of the craft store, a pot of ink, and begged my mom to let me use her prized brass inkwell–she did.

Reluctantly.

I think she was picturing black ink staining my entire room.

Thanks for encouraging the creative spark, Mom!

In this get-up, I would attempt to write stories somehow believing that having the costume would help inspire me, the first one a murder mystery called “Murder En Route” a horrifying tale of the demise of 5 college students meeting catastrophic ends on a road trip. It was unfinished.

Mostly, I just dressed up and played instead of doing much writing.

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Scribblers Fingerless Gloves Crochet Pattern

Crochet Hook

Size E hook

Yarn

Sport Weight yarn



Instructions

Mitt (make 2)

Chain 42.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), *ch 1, sk 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * across; turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in same st, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc; rep from * to last st working 2 dc in last st., turn.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), *ch 1, sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc; rep from * across, turn.

Rep Rows 2-3 until piece measures 7.5”

Edging Row: Ch 3, *dc-picot in next st, dc in next st; rep from * across.

Fasten off break yarn

Join yarn at foundation edge with RS facing.

Work Edging Row again.



Sew Mitts

Fold mitt Right Sides together, and sew a seam from top edge down 2.5”. Sew a second seam from the bottom edge up 3” leaving a 2” thumbhole. Repeat for second mitt. Turn mitts Right Side out.

Work Thumb

With RS facing,

Join yarn at lower thumb seam opening, pull up a loop.

Round 1: Ch 3, dc evenly around thumbhole opening, sl st to first dc to join rnd. Do not turn. The exact number of dc will depend on the circumference of your thumb opening, so I am not giving an exact stitch count. You will be able to tell if you have too few dc because the mitt will pucker or too many–the thumb will appear wavy and ruffled.

Rounds 2-3: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, sl st to join.

Fasten off. Break yarn leaving 6″ tail.



Finishing

Weave in yarn ends. Wash and/or steam lightly to set stitches.

I hope you’ll enjoy these sweet little Scribblers!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara



Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part III: Finishing and Installing Your Mobile

Whew, Crocheters!

It’s been a big adventure making these Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobiles, hasn’t it? Well, it’s time to put it all together!

Welcome to Part III of the Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Tutorial.

Want to see Part I or Part II?

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Don’t forget that you can BUY THE PDF EBOOK with complete patterns, instructions, and photo tutorials for just $5.

If you enjoy using the patterns and instructions for free here on the site and want to support more free designs, please consider clicking a few ad links.

Your support helps me keep the crochet machine cranking merrily along!



Special Tools for Mobile installation

Sewing needle and white or light-colored sewing thread for attaching Balloon Tops to Baskets and hanging Hot Air Balloons and Clouds to mobile frame

12” x 20” Quilter’s Wooden Embroidery Hoop to serve as mobile frame

Small amount of Color H yarn (light blue for sky). See Part I for more information on tools and supplies.

Mug Hook for ceiling installation

Lighting Inserts (Optional, but so fun!) You can use battery-powered flameless tea light candles to add a charming lighting element to 1 or 2 of your hot air balloons by placing the candle into the balloon basket for easy access to turn on and off. For an even more authentic hot air balloon experience, use a flameless candle that has a flickering effect! This functions as a sweet nightlight for your little one or pretty piece of home décor OR since the tea lights won’t fit into the smallest balloon basket, another idea would be to use a small string of battery-included LED fairy lights which can be tucked up inside the Hot Air Balloon Top.



Are you ready to get this bad boy strung up and hung up?

Let’s do it!

ATTACH BASKET ROPES TO BASKETS

Use a yarn needle to thread each Basket Rope through every other space at the top of the Basket. Secure rope by tying the beginning and ending yarn tails in a knot to close the rope, and weave in the yarn tails inside the basket to hide them. Adjust the drape of the ropes to your liking. You can steam them gently to relax the yarn. Repeat for other 2 Baskets.



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ATTACH BASKET TO BALLOON TOP

Use sewing thread to attach balloon basket to lower edge of Balloon. Weave or tuck any thread ends into the Balloon or Basket to secure. Insert optional lighting feature.

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WRAP MOBILE FRAME

Use Color H (or any color desired) to wrap the entire embroidery hoop with yarn. Weave in beginning and ending yarn tails to secure.

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ATTACH CHARMS TO MOBILE FRAME

To install your balloon mobile or installation, use sewing thread to thread a long hanging loop evenly through the top of your hot air balloon. Tuck the knotted end inside the balloon to keep it out of sight. I like to use a screw-in mug hook as a ceiling hanger. Hang hot air balloon from the thread loop. Repeat for other Hot Air Balloons and Clouds, hanging them at varying levels to please your eye.

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CROCHET HANGING CORDS

Join Color H centered at the narrow end of the mobile frame and create mobile hanging chains by chaining desired length across long space of mobile frame. Repeat across width of mobile frame. Weave in yarn ends. Create another loop to go around these 2 chain cords that will allow you to adjust the position of the mobile once hung. Weave in all yarn ends.

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STAND BACK AND ENJOY WHAT YOU’VE CREATED!

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It was quite a maker’s adventure!

Thank you for joining me on this beautiful adventure into the clear, blue skies of Crochetland, I hope you’ll come back to find out what I’m making next.

Because there’s always a new adventure waiting on the horizon.

on a personal note…

I’ll leave you with a slideshow of photos that tell the story of a sunrise hot air balloon adventure I was able to take with my husband to celebrate our 10th anniversary, the inspiration behind this project.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Wishing you love and happiness in all your creations, and those for whom you create!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara

Use #sarakayhartmann to share your Hot Air Balloon Adventure on Instagram.

Visit me at sarakayhartmann.com for more inspiring crochet patterns!

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Check out my first nursery mobile, the Crochet Butterfly Mobile!

Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part II: Glue-Blocking Tutorial

Hello Intrepid Crocheters!

If you have joined me on our Crochet Hot Air Balloon Mobile adventure, this is the second installment post that will teach you how to glue-block your crochet balloons and baskets so they will hang proudly aloft in the sky, floating merrily along.

Did you know that you can buy the PDF ebook of this crochet pattern along with full blocking and mobile-making instructions for just $5?

Well, you can!

 

BUY THE PDF EBOOK

 

I also welcome you to use the resources free on the site and please link and share to interested friends. If you enjoy the design and want to support my work and more free patterns, please consider clicking a few ads here on the site! 🙂

Now, let’s get down to some sticky business.

part 2 glue blocking

 

This glue-blocking technique is a bit like a magic trick, and many people have looked with fascination at my finished hot air balloons, and wondered “is it stuffed inside? how did you get it to stay open like that…?” It’s always fun to explain the process and it even intrigues people who aren’t as in to the whole crochet thing.

 

First is a photo-only explanation of the process, followed by step-by-step written instructions for glue-blocking [my term]  for stiffening/hardening/molding your crocheted hot air balloons into a lasting shape! I shared this idea on Reddit a few years ago when I made my first one and a brilliant Redditor called it “crochet mache” because the glue-saturation concept resembles papier-mache. Genius!

Photo Tutorial

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WRITTEN TUTORIAL

SPECIAL TOOLS for Glue-Blocking 

3 latex balloons –12” latex balloons

White school glue such as Elmer’s

Washable container that you don’t mind getting messy OR freezer paper to cover your work surface. If you use the shiny side of the freezer paper, the glue does not stick to it as pieces dry.

Waste yarn/string for hanging your Balloon Tops to dry.

Plastic grocery bag for molding your small Baskets (optional! You’ll see this in the pictures, but as I did this multiple times while re-designing the project, I learned that the Baskets molded just fine without a support as well. Up to you!)

Spray starch for pressing clouds (optional)

Balloon pump (optional)

 

 

GLUE-BLOCKING YOUR CROCHET

Balloon Tops and Baskets

Step 1: Apply Glue

Place your Balloon and Baskets (turn each piece Wrong Side out) in a washable container or on a surface that you don’t mind getting messy, I found that the shiny side of freezer paper worked well and the Balloons or Baskets didn’t stick to it. Cover each Balloon and Basket with white glue and massage the glue into the fabric until the crocheted fabric has soaked up all of the glue. The glues dries clear. Turn each Balloon and Basket Right Side out and repeat the process, saturating the entire balloon until the glue is fully worked into the fabric. Set aside in the container or on your covered surface. Repeat for each Balloon Top and Basket.

Step 2: Inflate Latex Balloon

If blowing up your balloon by mouth:

Stretch the neck of your latex balloon a couple times to make it easier to blow up. Get your latex balloon started with a few breaths of air. Insert your partially filled latex balloon into the neck of the hot air balloon. Now, holding it together with the glue-saturated hot air balloon, continue blowing up the latex balloon until it inflates your Balloon and pops a few inches out the neck of the Balloon —this part is messy, weird, and difficult, but take deep breaths and persevere! It will be worth it. Tie off the latex balloon and set the whole thing aside in the container or covered surface. Breathe the free air.

If you have a willing helper, you can get your balloon started and ask them to hold the neck of the crochet balloon open for you as you blow it up.

 

 

If using a balloon pump:

Begin filling your latex balloon with one or two pumps of air. Insert the partially filled latex balloon into the neck of the hot air balloon, lay in your container and continue pumping until the latex balloon inflates the hot air balloon and latex balloon pops out of the bottom of the hot air balloon by a few inches. Tie off latex balloon and set the whole thing aside in the container. I have to say, for a $2 outlay, this was a helpful tool and my 2-year old gets hours of fun firing off balloons around the room and giggling away. You should get one!



Step 3: Shape the Hot Air Balloon

As you blow up the latex balloon, it will inflate the glue-soaked Balloon creating a form for the balloon to dry into shape. Once your Balloon is filled to a pleasing shape, tie off the latex balloon. Use your fingers to tug and shape the hot air balloon evenly around the latex balloon, also adjusting the hot air balloon neck if needed, tugging and molding it into shape as desired. The piece will dry exactly as it is molded onto the latex balloon, so it’s worth adjusting it to your liking.

 

Step 4: Hang to Dry

Tie a piece of string or waste yarn to the knotted end of the latex balloon and hang to dry upside down. White glue cleans up easily with soap and water, but I hang mine over the basement laundry tub in case of any drips.

Step 5: Remove Latex Balloon

When the Hot Air Balloon is completely dry–this can take up to several days depending on the humidity levels in your workspace, check the piece all over for damp spots, especially the very top which is last to dry if the balloon is hanging upside down, untie and pop the latex balloon, gently pulling out any stuck pieces. Your balloon top should now be a hard shell!

 

Please See Hot Air Balloon Mobile Part III: Glue-Blocking Tutorial for a tutorial on putting all your work together to make the finished mobile!

Or buy the $5 PDF ebook for the full instructions in one handy booklet!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara 



Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part I: The Crochet Patterns

Welcome Crocheters and DIY Enthusiasts,

Join me as we embark on a Crochet Journey together making a charming and whimsical Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile!

Here’s our itinerary…

In Part I (this post), you’ll find a full crochet pattern to make 3  hot-air balloons with with accompanying baskets and ropes, along with 4 clouds.

In Part II you’ll find a super cool tutorial about hardening your crochet projects with a process I call glue-blocking. I walk you through all the steps of glue-blocking your balloons and baskets by molding them over latex balloons to form the lovely hot air balloon shape! It’s pretty cool, and there are tons of ways to use this technique to harden crochet pieces into baskets, wall art, lampshades, or holiday ornaments…the possibilities are endless.

Finally, in Part III, you’ll learn how to assemble your crocheted mobile charms and finish your mobile frame for hanging and installation.

Along the way, I’ve included modification ideas for changing yarn weights, using variegated yars, and even lighting your balloons for an added dazzle.

I really hope you enjoy!

Want this as a PDF ebook? Buy it here for just $5.

You can also support my free pattern work by clicking a few ad links here on the site. Every bit helps the crochet machine (i.e. me) keep cranking, and is deeply appreciated, though never expected.



Ready to fly? Let’s get started!

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SIZING
Finished Mobile:
17” [43 cm] height of charms hung from mobile frame
24” [61 cm] wide – this can be easily customized to your space depending on size and shape hoop used for mobile frame and level at which you hang your mobile charms

Hot Air Balloon A (small)
Balloon Top: 4.25” [11 cm] total length; 2.75” [7 cm] width; 8.25” [21 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 0.75” [2 cm] total length; 1” [2.5 cm] width; 3.5” [9 cm] circumference at fullest point

Hot Air Balloon B (medium)
Balloon Top: 6.5” [16.5 cm] total length; 4” [10 cm] width; 12.5” [32 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 1.25” [3 cm] total length; 1.5” [4 cm] width; 5” [12.75 cm] circumference at fullest point

Hot Air Balloon C (large)
Balloon Top: 9” [23 cm] total length; 5.5” [14 cm] width; 16.5” [42 cm] circumference at fullest point

Balloon Basket: 1.5” [4 cm] total length; 2” [5 cm] width; 6.5” [16.5 cm] circumference

Clouds: 2.5” [6.5 cm] length; 5.25” [13.5 cm] width

 

YARN
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Basket Ropes:
Baby Bee Sweet Delight (60% Acrylic/40% Polyamide; 377 yds [345 m];4 oz [115 g]): 1 skein each color.
Colors:
A: Sand Castle #404 (used in Hot Air Balloon color stripes and Baskets)
B: Bashfull #76
C: Pooltime #59
D: Flannel Marled #402
E: Sunkisses #16
F: Boo Pink # 40
G: Sugarplum #60
H: Surf Baby # 66
I: Teddy #14 (for Basket Rope)
For Clouds:
J: Yarn Bee Cotton XXL (100% cotton; 50 yd [46 m]; 3.5 oz [100g];
White #100; 1 skein.

Yarn Substitutions:
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Ropes: #3 Light Weight Yarn (DK weight) in 9 colors.
For Clouds: #5 Bulky Weight Yarn (Chunky weight) in white.

 

CROCHET HOOKS
For Balloon Tops, Baskets, and Ropes: Size G/6 [4.0 mm]
For Clouds: Size L/11 [8.0 mm]

TOOLS
Yarn needle

 

SPECIAL TOOLS for Glue-Blocking and Mobile Installation
3 latex balloons –12” latex balloons
White school glue such as Elmer’s
Washable container that you don’t mind getting messy OR freezer paper to cover your work surface. If you use the shiny side of the freezer paper, the glue does not stick to it as pieces dry.
Waste yarn/string for hanging your Balloon Tops to dry.
Spray starch for pressing clouds (optional)
Balloon pump (optional)
Sewing needle and white or light-colored sewing thread for attaching Balloon Tops to Baskets and hanging Hot Air Balloons and Clouds to mobile frame
12” x 20” Quilter’s Wooden Embroidery Hoop to serve as mobile frame
Mug Hook for ceiling installation

 

GAUGE
15 sts and 12.75 rows = 4” in granny row half double crochet after glue-blocking.

Note: Gauge does not need to be precise for this project. Use a hook size appropriate for the yarn you choose—check the yarn label for guidance. Feel free to go down a hook size for a denser fabric texture.

 

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
increase shell [inc sh(s)]: 6 hdc worked in sp indicated
long shell [long sh(s)]: 3 hdc worked worked over/around the ch-sp of previous rnd and in the sp of 2nd previous rnd indicated
shell(s) [sh(s)]: 3 hdc worked in any sp indicated
space(s) [sp(s)]: not the same as a conventional chain-space; refers to the area between shells or between individual stitches of increase shells
NOTES
• This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
• This pattern is worked in the round with Right Side of the work facing you at all times.
• Weave in ends as you go to reduce finishing: optional, but helpful when you are changing colors with each round!
• Allow several days for the glue to dry completely depending on the humidity level in your workspace.
• If your glue-blocked balloon is not hard enough or still has soft spots, you can repeat the stiffening process by adding more glue wherever needed and allowing it to dry completely.

 

MODIFICATION IDEAS
• Use a different yarn weight. This pattern works in any yarn weight, but the dimensions of the finished project and the amount of glue you
need will change if you use a different yarn weight than the pattern
states.

• Change the balloon size. You can also change the size of the balloon by working more or fewer increase rounds alternating with “work even” rounds until you achieve a balloon top diameter you like. You would also need to adjust the length of the Balloon Body and the number of decrease rounds to keep your balloon in proportion.

• Change the color and style. Consider using a variegated yarn for different color effect. If you use a continuous strand of yarn instead of changing colors, you will need to slip stitch to the appropriate starting point at the end of each round worked. I think the easiest way to do this is to complete the current round, turn the work so the Wrong Side is facing, and slip stitch back to a starting point (1 or 2 slip stitches) as directed in the instructions, turn the work again so the Right Side is facing and you are ready to begin the next round.
Psst! This would mean only 2 yarn ends to weave in on the balloon instead of about 60…something to think about!

• Add Lighting Inserts (Optional, but so fun!) Use battery-powered flameless tea light candles to add a charming lighting element to your hot air balloons by placing the candle into the balloon basket for easy access to turn on and off. For an even more authentic hot air balloon experience, use a flameless candle that has a flickering effect! This functions as a sweet nightlight for your little one or pretty piece of home décor.

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Balloon A (small)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Balloon Body
Rnds 5-6 (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

 

Balloon Bottom
Rnd 7 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs, 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 8: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…4 lshs; 4 shs.

Rnds 9-10: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

Rnd 11 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 12: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it (see photo for assistance). Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…2 lsh; 2 shs.

Rnds 13-14: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs.

Basket A
Special Note for Baskets made from one yarn: If you are making your Basket using one continuous strand of yarn as shown here, you will need to slip stitch your working yarn into position to start your next round at the beginning of each new round. At the end of each round, turn the work so the Wrong Side is facing, slip stitch back to the corner ch-sp or sp as directed, turn the work again so the Right Side is facing and you are ready to begin the next round.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) three times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnds 2-3: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…4 shs.

 

Balloon B (medium)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 5 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp betw shells, *inc sh in next sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs and 6 shs.

Rnd 6: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Balloon Body

Rnds 7-9: (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

Balloon Bottom

Rnd 10 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs, 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 11: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…6 lshs; 6 shs.

Rnds 12-13: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 14 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 15: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…3 lsh; 3 sh.

Rnds 16-18: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Basket B
See Special Note for Basket A.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) five times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…6 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnds 2-5: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

 



 

Balloon C (large)
Balloon Top
Note: Change yarn colors with each new round, fastening off after each round and joining yarn in st or sp indicated.

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: With any color: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd, tighten adjustable ring to close…12 hdc.

Rnd 2: Join new color in any hdc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same st, sk next hdc, *sh in next hdc, sk next hdc; rep from * around…sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 shs.

Rnd 3 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, *inc sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs.

Rnd 4: Join new color in any sp betw inc shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sk 3 hdc, sh in center of next inc sh (working betw 3rd and 4th hdc of inc sh), *sh in next sp betw inc shs, sh in center of next inc sh; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 5 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp betw shells, *inc sh in next sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs and 6 shs.

Rnd 6: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Rnd 7 (increase rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps, inc sh in next sp, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around, sl to to first hdc to join rnd…6 inc shs, 12 shs.

Balloon Body

Rnd 8: Join new color in center of any inc sh. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 3 sps *sh in center of next inc sh, sh in next 3 sps; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…24 shs.

Rnds 9-12 (work even): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, * sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd.

Balloon Bottom
Rnd 13 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs, 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 14: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next 2 sps, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next 2 sps; rep from * around…6 lshs; 12 shs.

Rnds 15-17: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…18 shs.

Rnd 18 (decrease rnd): Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in next sp, ch 1, sk next sp, *sh in next 2 sps, ch 1, sk next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs; 6 ch-sps.

Rnd 19: Work as for Rnd 14…6 lsh; 6 sh.

Rnds 20-21: Join new color in any sp betw shs. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…12 shs.

Rnd 22 (decrease rnd): Work as for Rnd 14…8 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 23: Join new color by attaching yarn around any ch-sp and the sp of the 2nd prev rnd beneath it. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp working around ch-sp of prev rnd and into sp of 2nd prev rnd beneath it (lsh made), sh in next sp, *lsh in next sp of 2nd prev rnd/around ch-sp, sh in next sp; rep from * around…4 lshs; 4 shs.

Rnds 24-26: Join new color in any sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, *sh in next sp; rep from * around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

 

Basket C
See Special Note for Basket A.

With Color A:
Make adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in ring, (ch 1, 3 hdc) three times into ring, sl st to first hdc to join rnd. Tighten ring to close…4 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 2 (increase rnd): Sl st to nearest corner ch-sp, ch 2 (counts as hdc), (2 hdc – ch 1 – sh) in same ch-sp, (sh – ch 1 – sh) in each ch-sp around, sl to to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs; 4 ch-sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st to nearest corner ch-sp, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same ch-sp, sh in each sp or ch-sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

Rnds 4-6: Sl st to nearest sp betw shells. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in same sp, sh in each sp around, sl st to first hdc to join rnd…8 shs.

 

Basket Ropes (Make 3)
Make a chain 2” [5 cm] longer than the circumference of the Basket you just made. Repeat to make a Basket Rope for each Basket.

 

Cloud (make 4)
With J and larger hook:
Round 1: Ch 5, 3 dc in first ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 8 dc in same ch, working on bottom side of foundation chain, sk 1 ch, sl st in next ch, 5 dc in same ch, sk 1 ch, sl st in first ch worked to close round.
Fasten off; break yarn leaving 12” [30.5 cm] tail.

If your cloud has any gaps from working into the center, you can use the yarn tail(s) to invisibly sew it closed from the back. Weave in yarn ends.

 

FINISHING
Turn Balloons and Baskets Wrong Side out. Weave in all yarn ends.
Glue-block by following these instructions. Press clouds with a warm iron and a little spray starch, if desired.

 

STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS

”                    inches

*                    repeat the instructions

following the single

asterisk as directed

betw            between

ch                chain

ch-sp           chain-space

cm               centimeters

dc                double crochet

dec             decrease

g                  grams

hdc              half double crochet

inc                increase

m                 meters

mm              millimeters

oz                 ounces

prev             previous

rep               repeat

rnd(s)           round(s)

sk                  skip

sl st               slip stitch

st(s)              stitch(es)

yd                yards

yo                yarn over

 

Well done! You’re ready to travel on to Hot Air Balloon Nursery Mobile Part II: Glue-Blocking!

Yours in Stitches,

Sara

 
image tile for blog and IG

Soft & Sweet Baby Beanies

 

Quick. Easy. Adorable.

The Soft & Sweet Baby Beanie is a lovely baby gift. The pattern offers 3 sizes and 4 color options to change up the basic double crochet beanie so you can suit it to boys and girls or go gender-neutral!

 

Sizes

Newborn (6 Mos., 12 Mos.)

Newborn finished measurements: 14” head circumference and 5” length from brim to crown

6 mos. finished measurements: 16.25” head circumference and 5.75” length from brim to crown

12 mos. finished measurements: 18” head circumference and 6.5” length from brim to crown



 

Yarn

All Samples Used Various Colors of: Baby Bee Sweet Delight (60% Acrylic & 40% Polyamide; 377 yd [344 m] / 4 oz [113 g]

 

For Yarn Substitutions:

71 (84, 101) yd [65 (77, 93) m] / 0.74 (0.88, 1.1) oz [21 (25, 30 g] of #3 Light (DK weight) yarn

 

Hook/Gauge

Size F/5 [3.75 mm] hook

18 sts and 11 rows = 4” in double crochet

 

Notes

  • This beanie is worked in the round from crown to brim in double crochet with one round of reverse single crochet (crab stitch) as a border.
  • Each round is a Right Side round.

 

COLOR VARIATIONS

Solid Color:

Use one color to work the entire hat. Easy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Color Blocked Hat:

Work Rounds 1-8 (1-10, 1-12) in Color A and Rounds 9-13 (11-15, 13-17) in Color B. Work Edging Round in A or B as desired. Try making a pom-pom in Color C and attach to the crown center for a jaunty winter look!

 

Classic 2-Color Stripes:

Work all odd numbered rounds in Color A and all even-numbered rounds in Color B; work Edging Round in B. Carry unused yarn down the inside of the hat “seam” without fastening off to reduce the number of ends to weave in. (Psst! This sample shows the Classic 2-Color Stripes Beanie with my Baby Bear Ears motif from my Sweet Motifs for Crochet Delight Collection!)

 

Multi-Stripes: Work each round in a different color, or alternate colors at random. Go color crazy! Pick “boy” or “girl” colors or make it gender-neutral—a great option for gifts where the parents are not finding out the baby’s sex.

Fasten off and break yarn after each round and join a new color at the start of the next round. Work over yarn ends to weave in as you go and reduce finishing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BASIC BEANIE INSTRUCTIONS

See Color Variations Above to determine color patterning.

 



CROWN

All Sizes

Make adjustable ring.

 

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to join round and pull beginning yarn tail to close ring…12 dc.

 

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to first dc to join round…24 dc.

 

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next dc *2 dc in first dc, dc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…36 dc.

 

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…48 dc.

 

Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 3 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…60 dc.

 

Size 6 Mos. and 12 Mos. ONLY

Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 4 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…72 dc.

 

Size 12 Mos. ONLY

Round 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, dc in next 11 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 11 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first dc to join round…78 dc.

 

HAT BODY

All Sizes

Round 6 (7, 8): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each dc around, sl st to first dc to join round.

Rounds 7-13 (8-15, 9-17): Ch 3 (counts as dc, dc in each dc around, sl st to first dc to join round.

 

Edging Round: Ch 1, work rev sc (crab stitch) in each dc around, sl st to first rev sc to join round.

 

Finishing

Weave in yarn ends. Block lightly with gentle steam if desired.

 

 

 

 

 

 



STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS

 

”                       inches

*                      repeat the instructions following

the single asterisk as directed

ch                    chain

cm                  centimeters

dc                   double crochet

g                      grams

m                     meters

mm                 millimeters

mos                 months

oz                    ounces

rep                  repeat

rev sc              reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

rnd(s)              round(s)

RS                    Right Side

sl st                  slip stitch

st(s)                 stitch(es)

WS                   Wrong Side

yds                  yards

 



 

Thank you for using a #SaraKayHartmann design.

I hope to give you a joyous crochet experience!

 

Share your projects with me at

@sarakayhartmann on IG

 

Find more patterns you’ll love at sarakayhartmann.com

Many of the hats in this collection were embellished with my

Sweet Motifs for Crochet Delight!



Yours in Stitches,
Sara

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